Switches - Revision history

Chklnk: Light editing

2024-02-21T09:08:31Z

Light editing

Chklnk: Better word choices, restructure/paragraph shuffle

2024-01-01T09:38:54Z

Better word choices, restructure/paragraph shuffle

Chklnk: /* Whyachi MS-2 */ Removed voltage comment, already addressed in new precharge section

2023-11-26T23:45:46Z

Whyachi MS-2: Removed voltage comment, already addressed in new precharge section

Chklnk: Cleanup, streamlining

2023-11-17T09:07:55Z

Cleanup, streamlining

User: added details

2021-12-11T15:55:00Z

added details

User: Added some detail to power-lights

2021-11-20T04:04:16Z

Added some detail to power-lights

Chklnk: Editing, link switch, multi switch, power lights

2021-11-13T20:08:25Z

Editing, link switch, multi switch, power lights

User: Added some common switchs - should be reviewed.

2021-11-13T05:23:54Z

Added some common switchs - should be reviewed.

New page

== Power Switches ==
[[File:WhyachiMS05.jpg|thumb|Whyachi MS-5]]
Although some people will choose to power-on their robots by simply plugging in their batteries, this approach is only suitible for smaller robots and will usually take additional time with builders tryig to secure the wires before their match. Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. Although many options will work, some like Hella switches require significant modifications to be suitible for robot combat.<br>
One thing designers need to consider is how to safely access the robot's power switch when it is active. Remember weapon and drive systems may not be working properly after a match, so place your switch away from moving parts. Additionally, in larger robots think about being able to access the switch without having to flip over the robot.<br>

===Nano Power Combat Robotics Switch===
[https://itgresa.com/product/nano-power-switch/ This very simple switch] uses a screw to contact to conductive pads to complete the circuit. At <1g, it is suitible for tiny 150g robots and for 1lb robots that don't draw a lot of current.

===Fingertech===
[[File:FingerTechSwitch.jpg|thumb|Fingertech Switch]]
[https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-mini-switch This tiny 2.15g switch] is extremly popular. It is well built, affordable, and can handle up to 40amps making it suitible for many smaller to medium sized robots. It is activated by a 3/32" hex wrench.

===Whyachi MS-05===
[http://teamwhyachi.com/switches.html The smaller switch from Team Whyachi] weighs 1oz making it much too big for insect sized robots but it will easily handle 140amps for a 3 minute match making it great for medium sized weapon systems and sometimes, full-sized robot drive systems. It is activated by a 5/32 hex wrench.

===Whyachi MS-2===
This big switch chomes in at 5oz but can handle tremndous amounts of current and is suitible for most large weapon systems. One challenge with these switches is how then handle higher voltages. The 5/32" hex wrench can be slow to make it's connection which can result in electrical arching and carbon build-up on the contactors. There are some high-voltage add-ons which can reduce the problem.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-To avoid injury, competition rules for combat robots require power to be disconnected when entering or leaving the combat box or arena and in areas where people might be struck or endangered by it. We call this the power switch, or disconnect. Many also require a power indicating light so people can see if the bot is "live." Check the rules that govern your events before participating.
+To avoid injury, competition rules for combat robots require something to disconnect power when entering or leaving the combat box or arena and in areas where people might be struck or endangered by it. We call this the power switch, disconnect, or link. Many also require a power indicating light so people can see if the bot is "live." Check the rules that govern your events before participating.
 =Design Considerations=
-*Ideally, use a disconnect rated for the maximum amperage of all the systems that is powers. However, you can choose to accept that it will pass more current with some undesirable overheating of the switch, given the short length of combat matches.
+*Ideally, use a disconnect rated for the maximum amperage of all the systems that it powers. However, you can choose to accept that it will pass more current with some undesirable overheating of the switch, given the short length of combat matches.
-*The disconnect must be direct-acting; it can't be a small switch that turns off a larger, inaccessible relay or contactor.
+*The disconnect must be direct-acting; it can't be a small switch that turns on and off a larger, inaccessible relay or contactor.
 *Disconnects need to be reachable from outside the bot. Assume your bot could be in a dangerous state when approached, and consider how to safely turn off the robot's power while it is active. Any bot capable of injury should be able to be switched off without touching the bot, such as with a tool. Place your switch(es) making sure that both the tool and your hands are far away from moving parts. In larger robots, think about being able to access the switch without having to flip over the robot.
 *Technically any electrical switch with sufficient ratings can be used in robot combat, but if you choose a switch that maintains contact through spring pressure, as most do, it may momentarily open if your bot experiences high impacts.
@@ Line 41: / Line 41: @@
 ===Whyachi MS-2===
-This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current (500 amps for 3 minutes) and is suitable for most large weapon systems.
+This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current (500 amps for up to 3 minutes) and is suitable for most large weapon systems.
 ===Battery isolator switches===
 The classic Hella-style rotary-operated switch allows 100 amps continuously, but you should eliminate the breakable plastic key for safety and rig it to allow tool insertion.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-To avoid injury, competition rules for combat robots in most cases require them to be turned off when entering or leaving the combat box or arena. Many also require a power indicating light so people can see if the bot is "live." Check the rules that govern your events before participating.
+To avoid injury, competition rules for combat robots require power to be disconnected when entering or leaving the combat box or arena and in areas where people might be struck or endangered by it. We call this the power switch, or disconnect. Many also require a power indicating light so people can see if the bot is "live." Check the rules that govern your events before participating.
-==Design Considerations==
+=Design Considerations=
-*The switch must be direct-acting; it can't be a small switch that turns off a larger, inaccessible relay or contactor.
+*Ideally, use a disconnect rated for the maximum amperage of all the systems that is powers. However, you can choose to accept that it will pass more current with some undesirable overheating of the switch, given the short length of combat matches.
-*Switches that maintain contact through moderate spring pressure may fail or momentarily open if your bot experiences high impacts. This is why maintaining positive contact with screws is so common.
+*The disconnect must be direct-acting; it can't be a small switch that turns off a larger, inaccessible relay or contactor.
-*Normally switches need to be reachable from outside the bot. Assume the bot could be in a dangerous state when approached, and consider how to safely turn off the robot's power while it is active. Any bot capable of injury should be able to be switched off without touching the bot, normally with a tool. Place your switch(es) making sure that both the tool and your hands are far away from moving parts. In larger robots, think about being able to access the switch without having to flip over the robot.
+*Disconnects need to be reachable from outside the bot. Assume your bot could be in a dangerous state when approached, and consider how to safely turn off the robot's power while it is active. Any bot capable of injury should be able to be switched off without touching the bot, such as with a tool. Place your switch(es) making sure that both the tool and your hands are far away from moving parts. In larger robots, think about being able to access the switch without having to flip over the robot.
 ==Removable Link==
-In place of a switch, a removable link (loop of wire, jumper plug, or shorting bar) can be used. This link is pushed into a connector, which is placed where the link can be safely plucked from the robot without tools at the end of the match, or in case of emergency. These are required by the [[Rules|FRA rules]] and so are commonly seen in UK/EU matches. Larger bots may require more than one link on opposite sides of the bot.
+In place of a switch, a removable link (loop of wire, jumper plug, or shorting bar) can be used. This link is pushed into a connector, which is placed where the link can be safely plucked from the robot at the end of the match, or in case of emergency. These are required by the [[Rules|FRA rules]] and so are commonly seen in UK/EU matches, and may be permissible in other regions. Larger bots may require more than one link on opposite sides of the bot.
 ==No Switch==
 If the rules allow it, some people with smaller robots will omit the switch and simply plug and unplug the battery instead. It may be awkward to secure the wires and close the cover on the bot before the match, and could make it difficult to turn the robot off if it has sustained damage during the match. Only do this on bots with non-destructive weapons with no possibility of injury to the person handling the bot.
-== Power Switches ==
+==Common Power Switch==
-Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. A small slide switch, placed where it will not protrude and be bumped, might be fine for a small insect-weight bot. The best switch is one that won't turn off during a match no matter how hard your bot is hit, or how far it falls.
+For bots in small insect [[RobotClasses|weight classes]], readily available power switches such as a small slide switch, placed where it will not protrude and be bumped, might be fine—so long as it won't turn off during a match even for a moment, no matter how hard your bot is hit, or how far it falls.
 ===Nano Power Combat Robotics Switch===
@@ Line 24: / Line 38: @@
 ===Whyachi MS-05===
 [[File:WhyachiMS05.jpg|thumb|Whyachi MS-05]]
-[http://teamwhyachi.com/switches.html The smaller switch from Team Whyachi] weighs 1oz, making it much too big for insect sized robots, but it will handle 140 amps for a 3 minute match making it great for medium sized weapon systems and sometimes, full-sized robot drive systems. It is activated by a 7/64" hex wrench.
+[http://teamwhyachi.com/switches.html The smaller switch from Team Whyachi] weighs about 28g (1oz), too large for insect sized robots, but it will handle 140 amps for a 3 minute match making it great for medium sized bots. It is activated by a 7/64" hex wrench.
 ===Whyachi MS-2===
@@ Line 31: / Line 45: @@
 ===Battery isolator switches===
 The classic Hella-style rotary-operated switch allows 100 amps continuously, but you should eliminate the breakable plastic key for safety and rig it to allow tool insertion.

@@ Line 27: / Line 27: @@
 ===Whyachi MS-2===
-This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current (500 amps for 3 minutes) and is suitable for most large weapon systems. One challenge with these switches is how then handle higher voltages. It takes several turns of the 5/32" hex wrench to make the connection, which can result in electrical arcing and damage to the contacts. There are some high-voltage add-ons which can reduce the problem.
+This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current (500 amps for 3 minutes) and is suitable for most large weapon systems.
 ===Battery isolator switches===

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 *The switch must be direct-acting; it can't be a small switch that turns off a larger, inaccessible relay or contactor.
 *Switches that maintain contact through moderate spring pressure may fail or momentarily open if your bot experiences high impacts. This is why maintaining positive contact with screws is so common.
-*Normally switches need to be reachable from outside the bot, often with a tool. One thing designers need to consider is how to safely turn off the robot's power while it is active. Remember weapon and drive systems may not be working properly after a match, so place your switch making sure that both your tool (if any) and your hands are far away from moving parts. In larger robots, think about being able to access the switch without having to flip over the robot.
+*Normally switches need to be reachable from outside the bot. Assume the bot could be in a dangerous state when approached, and consider how to safely turn off the robot's power while it is active. Any bot capable of injury should be able to be switched off without touching the bot, normally with a tool. Place your switch(es) making sure that both the tool and your hands are far away from moving parts. In larger robots, think about being able to access the switch without having to flip over the robot.
 ==No Switch==
-If the rules allow it, some people will choose to power-on their robots by simply plugging in their batteries. This approach is only suitable for smaller robots, and often takes additional time with builders trying to secure the wires and closing covers on the bot before their match. It can also make it difficult to turn the robot off if it has sustained damage during the match. This approach can work on a non-weaponed bot but always use a dedicated power switch if your bot has a weapon.
+If the rules allow it, some people with smaller robots will omit the switch and simply plug and unplug the battery instead. It may be awkward to secure the wires and close the cover on the bot before the match, and could make it difficult to turn the robot off if it has sustained damage during the match. Only do this on bots with non-destructive weapons with no possibility of injury to the person handling the bot.
 == Power Switches ==
-Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. Although many options will work, some like Hella switches require significant modifications to be suitable for robot combat. Switches designed for robot combat all require some sort of tool to activate. This allows you to activate the switch without having to hold or manipulate your robot. This can be especially important after your match if your robot has taken damage.
+Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. A small slide switch, placed where it will not protrude and be bumped, might be fine for a small insect-weight bot. The best switch is one that won't turn off during a match no matter how hard your bot is hit, or how far it falls.
 ===Nano Power Combat Robotics Switch===
@@ Line 24: / Line 24: @@
 ===Whyachi MS-05===
 [[File:WhyachiMS05.jpg|thumb|Whyachi MS-05]]
-[http://teamwhyachi.com/switches.html The smaller switch from Team Whyachi] weighs 1oz, making it much too big for insect sized robots, but it will easily handle 140 amps for a 3 minute match making it great for medium sized weapon systems and sometimes, full-sized robot drive systems. It is activated by a 7/64" hex wrench.
+[http://teamwhyachi.com/switches.html The smaller switch from Team Whyachi] weighs 1oz, making it much too big for insect sized robots, but it will handle 140 amps for a 3 minute match making it great for medium sized weapon systems and sometimes, full-sized robot drive systems. It is activated by a 7/64" hex wrench.
 ===Whyachi MS-2===
-This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current and is suitable for most large weapon systems. One challenge with these switches is how then handle higher voltages. It takes several turns of the 5/32" hex wrench to make the connection, which can result in electrical arcing and damage to the contacts. There are some high-voltage add-ons which can reduce the problem.
+This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current (500 amps for 3 minutes) and is suitable for most large weapon systems. One challenge with these switches is how then handle higher voltages. It takes several turns of the 5/32" hex wrench to make the connection, which can result in electrical arcing and damage to the contacts. There are some high-voltage add-ons which can reduce the problem.
 ==Multiple Switches==
 The larger the bot, the more likely you will be required to meet strict safety rules regarding switch placement and accessibility. Your bot may need a separate weapons switch, mobility power switch, safety kill switch, and/or control circuits switch, so that only required circuits will be activated at any given time.
 ==Power Lights==
-How do you know if your bot is powered on? Or more importantly, how does the crew running your event know if your bot is powered on? It is a best practice and a rule in many events events that a power-light indicator is easily visible. The presense of the light can also help troubleshoot some common mistakes such a failing to plug in the battery.  As a best practice the power-light should be placed close to the power switch and be easily visible when turning the robot on or off. For small bots, the LEDs on the radio-receiver or control circuits can be made visible through the plastic body or through access holes meaning no seperate power-light is needed. When the internal lights are not visible, you will need to install one separatly. Many bots will have >1 switch due to the seperation of the drive and weapon systems. In these designs, it is important to have a power-light for each circuit.
+You and the crew running your event must be able to know if your bot is powered on for safety reasons as well as troubleshooting.  It is a best practice and a rule in most events that a power-on indicator light is easily visible. The power light should be placed close to the power switch and be easily visible from the outside of the bot when turning it on or off. For small bots, the indicator LEDs on the radio receiver or control circuits can be made visible through the plastic body or through access holes. If multiple switches are required as noted above, each independent circuit needs its own power indicator light.

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 ==No Switch==
-If the rules allow it, some people will choose to power-on their robots by simply plugging in their batteries. This approach is only suitable for smaller robots, and often takes additional time with builders trying to secure the wires and closing covers on the bot before their match.
+If the rules allow it, some people will choose to power-on their robots by simply plugging in their batteries. This approach is only suitable for smaller robots, and often takes additional time with builders trying to secure the wires and closing covers on the bot before their match. It can also make it difficult to turn the robot off if it has sustained damage during the match. This approach can work on a non-weaponed bot but always use a dedicated power switch if your bot has a weapon.
 ==Removable Link==
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 == Power Switches ==
-Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. Although many options will work, some like Hella switches require significant modifications to be suitable for robot combat.
+Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. Although many options will work, some like Hella switches require significant modifications to be suitable for robot combat. Switches designed for robot combat all require some sort of tool to activate. This allows you to activate the switch without having to hold or manipulate your robot. This can be especially important after your match if your robot has taken damage.
 ===Nano Power Combat Robotics Switch===

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:04, 20 November 2021
Line 33:		Line 33:

	==Power Lights==		==Power Lights==
−	~~Many~~ events ~~require~~ a power indicator ~~on combat robots,~~ to ~~know whether~~ the ~~switches are~~ on, or ~~the links are in place~~. For small bots, the LEDs on the radio or control circuits can be made visible through the plastic body or through access holes. ~~For larger~~ bots ~~with multiple circuits or switches~~, ~~lights must indicate whether~~ each circuit ~~is on or off~~.	+	How do you know if your bot is powered on? Or more importantly, how does the crew running your event know if your bot is powered on? It is a best practice and a rule in many events events that a power-light indicator is easily visible. The presense of the light can also help troubleshoot some common mistakes such a failing to plug in the battery. As a best practice the power-light should be placed close to the power switch and be easily visible when turning the robot on or off. For small bots, the LEDs on the radio-receiver or control circuits can be made visible through the plastic body or through access holes meaning no seperate power-light is needed. When the internal lights are not visible, you will need to install one separatly. Many bots will have >1 switch due to the seperation of the drive and weapon systems. In these designs, it is important to have a power-light for each circuit.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 == Power Switches ==
-[[File:WhyachiMS05.jpg|thumb|Whyachi MS-5]]
+Most people choose some readily available power switches to turn their robots on and off. Although many options will work, some like Hella switches require significant modifications to be suitable for robot combat.
 ===Nano Power Combat Robotics Switch===
-[https://itgresa.com/product/nano-power-switch/ This very simple switch] uses a screw to contact to conductive pads to complete the circuit. At <1g, it is suitible for tiny 150g robots and for 1lb robots that don't draw a lot of current.
+[https://itgresa.com/product/nano-power-switch/ This very simple switch] uses a screw to contact conductive pads to complete the circuit. At <1g, it is suitable for tiny 150g robots and for 1lb robots that don't draw a lot of current.
 ===Fingertech===
 [[File:FingerTechSwitch.jpg|thumb|Fingertech Switch]]
-[https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-mini-switch This tiny 2.15g switch] is extremly popular. It is well built, affordable, and can handle up to 40amps making it suitible for many smaller to medium sized robots. It is activated by a 3/32" hex wrench.
+[https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-mini-switch This tiny 2.15g switch] is extremely popular. It is well built, affordable, and can handle current up to 40 amps, making it suitable for many smaller to medium sized robots. It is activated by a 3/32" hex wrench.
 ===Whyachi MS-05===
-[http://teamwhyachi.com/switches.html The smaller switch from Team Whyachi] weighs 1oz making it much too big for insect sized robots but it will easily handle 140amps for a 3 minute match making it great for medium sized weapon systems and sometimes, full-sized robot drive systems. It is activated by a 5/32 hex wrench.
+[[File:WhyachiMS05.jpg|thumb|Whyachi MS-05]]
 ===Whyachi MS-2===
-This big switch chomes in at 5oz but can handle tremndous amounts of current and is suitible for most large weapon systems. One challenge with these switches is how then handle higher voltages. The 5/32" hex wrench can be slow to make it's connection which can result in electrical arching and carbon build-up on the contactors. There are some high-voltage add-ons which can reduce the problem.
+This big switch comes in at 5oz but can handle tremendous amounts of current and is suitable for most large weapon systems. One challenge with these switches is how then handle higher voltages. It takes several turns of the 5/32" hex wrench to make the connection, which can result in electrical arcing and damage to the contacts. There are some high-voltage add-ons which can reduce the problem.